Restaurant Overview: Casa Dani in Manhattan West

The unique prospect for spherification, and probably essentially the most widespread only one within the heyday of scientific Spanish delicacies, was olive juice. 10 yrs again, Mr. García could effectively have specified us olive spheres with Casa Dani’s extraordinary anchovies — the 2 the darkish, purplish varieties cured in oil and the white, vinegar-marinated sort. Now he serves the olive juice as olive juice, a briny inexperienced bathtub for the fish.

In case you commit loads of time amongst the appetizers at Casa Dani, sooner or afterwards you’ll encounter new Andalusian tuna: a glistening sheet of pinkish abdomen mendacity concerning the thinnest, crispest pan con tomate in New York lean loin and fatty abdomen chopped and molded aspect by side into a relaxing, two-toned ring the fleshy meat from simply down under the pinnacle, liberated on the desk from the salt crust by which it was baked. (The menu interprets morrillo de atún, the Spanish title for this drippingly loaded morsel, as “tuna reduce from the brow.”) Guests to Madrid have considered on the very least one specific locale of a ham-concentrated chain generally known as Museo del Jamón. Casa Dani might effortlessly rebrand itself Museo del Atún.

At to begin with, Casa Dani would appear to be in competitors with Mercado Little or no Spain, José Andrés’s meals stuff hall in Hudson Yards, which additionally leans in the direction of common delicacies. However Mercado Minimal Spain doesn’t have practically something just like the regional depth mirrored in people Andalusian tuna recipes. And the spot is a little bit of a scavenger hunt, the place by the very best issues to soak up are scattered all through a maze of kiosks, counters, bars and takeout situations. Mr. García’s restaurant can be extra rewarding, dish for dish, than any side of Mercado Little Spain, which embrace its two far more formal eating rooms, Leña and Mar.

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