I grew up in Texas, however my household is from Lombardy and Sardinia, so I’ve been heading backwards and forwards to Italy because of the truth I used to be a child. I’ve usually been interested in the foodstuff and wine custom of Piedmont. With six escalating seasons a lot kind of in its place of 4, the realm has unbelievable make the city of Alba is by which white truffles originated. As you drive up and down the hills and mountains, you’re surrounded by inexperienced fields and vineyards, with fog sometimes creeping in. When there’s a thunderstorm coming, you could presumably even hearken to cannons early within the morning or late at evening—the bursts of sound are thought of to disperse the rain and guard the grapes. Just because Piedmont has something I might examine with for in circumstances of meals, I knew I skilled to cook dinner there. I checked out a pair eating places, and I ate at numerous them.
All’Enoteca stood out I labored there in late 2014. It’s run by chef Davide Palluda, who grew to turn into a mentor to me. What altered my lifetime in Piedmont is its cooks’ devotion to element. There’s customized driving it: They’re respecting the eating regimen plans and practices which were crafted for tons of of a few years. You may carry a updated eye, however what I uncovered from Davide—and from Piedmont as an entire—is that it’s important to know customized forward of you’ll be able to innovate. I function my possess restaurant in New York now, however I am going once more to the realm 4 occasions a 12 months.
My situation has continuously been to keep away from the vacationer spots and are available throughout the minimal gems. I get the best suggestions consuming throughout tables with shut buddies, wine producers, and different cooks. This osteria does this this trattoria does that. I manufactured a massive itemizing of all their picks after which I began ingesting at them. Beneath I’ll permit you in on a few of my most well-liked locations to attempt to eat and drink in hopes you get as keen about Piedmont as I’m. Classic dishes, nice wine—it seldom will get much better. —Stefano Secchi, chef, Rezdôra NYC
“If you happen to’re going to take a look at the true Piedmont,” Secchi suggests, you’ll uncover oneself winding via roadways “small enough that it may be actually arduous to get two vehicles by at the exact same time.” (He’s glad to attend round and permit the Italians fly by.) That warning will probably be rewarded—from trendy Piedmontese to nonna’s cooking, these are the websites that maintain Secchi coming again once more for extra.
The meals on the significant-finish All’Enoteca, precisely the place Secchi labored for a calendar 12 months, retains discovering higher, he says. The way in which chef Davide Palluda performs with the road regarding conventional and updated carries on to impress him. A the most recent meal bundled vitello tonnato reimagined as a simply one-chunk coaching course: The Piedmontese sauce of tuna and capers was formed right into a peanut, served on a cracker in its place of veal. “You’re anticipating a peanut, however it’s tonnato sauce,” Secchi suggests. “It was a head-blowing meals.”